CASACDE ALPINE GUIDES

2001 MOUNT RAINIER SUMMIT CLIMB

We can’t say it often enough: Mt Rainier is an EXTREMELY CHALLENGING climb!

The 4-day schedule will give you the best opportunity for a successful summit by allowing time to acclimatize and be more rested, but the climb will still be very strenuous. One of the most critical elements for an enjoyable attempt on Mt Rainier is being in the best possible physical condition. Working through a rigorous training program will also get you used to sustained, hard physical work, helping to prepare you for the mental challenges that Mt Rainier presents.

We cannot overemphasize the need for a comprehensive training program started at least six months before the climb.

Starting a few weeks before the climb is not enough, and will result in a less enjoyable trip for you and your teammates, and a reduced likelihood of reaching the summit.

Think about developing a fitness program that has the aim of getting you to the required fitness level at least a month before the date of the climb. If you wish, work with an experienced trainer to reach your fitness goals.

Deal with any joint pain or dysfunction immediately, to ensure that you don’t end up with an injury. Any acute injuries (sprains, strains etc) should also be given quick attention to stop them becoming ongoing problems. Take your doctor’s advice on easing back into training following any illness or injury in the leadup to the climb.

The following are general suggestions for training:

Endurance

As a self-sufficient climbing party, the group will be carrying all required gear up steep snow slopes at increasing altitude, for up to eight hours at a time. Your pack will weight between 50 and 60 pounds, so you must include pack carrying in your training program. The following tips will help you build your endurance:

Using the pack you will take to Mt Rainier, start with 20 pounds of weight and walk up steep, demanding terrain. As your endurance and fitness improves gradually increase the weight, the length and frequency of your hikes, and the steepness of terrain.

Aim to be able to carry your fully loaded pack uphill for at least 10 hours by a month before the climb date

If you need to buy equipment items for the trip, get them early and get used to carrying them as part of your training.

Cardio-vascular fitness

Mt Rainier's steepness and altitude, coupled with the weight of your pack, will severely test your lung capacity. The following are good options for increasing your cardio-vascular fitness:

If you run, gradually increase the distance you run, and include interval training and hills in your runs. You may also wish to run with a small pack to increase the workload. Develop a program that tests your limits.

Cycling and swimming programs can also be used. Include periods of increased effort, like hills on your bike or periods of sprinting while swimming - long periods of consistent effort will help with endurance but won't improve your fitness as effectively.

Stairmaster and other gym machines can be used in combination with other activities to provide some variation to your training, but are not enough on their own.

If you have the opportunity to train at altitude, make the most of it!

Strength

Strength training will help develop muscles used for the ascent and descent. Think about using weight machines or free weights to help strengthen your hamstrings, quadriceps (thighs), and calves in particular.

Hydration

Hydration is critical in a high altitude environment, particularly when you're working hard. Get used to drinking at least 64 oz of water every day, more if you're out and about on a training mission.

Finally…

Be honest about your training program. The fitter you are, the happier and safer you will be once you get to the mountain. If at any stage you have any doubts about your training or ability to climb the mountain, check with your doctor.

Sample training schedule

Combining aerobic, strength and endurance training into a schedule can be a challenge. The following sample schedule is intended as a basis for your own training program. Vary activities as necessary, but make sure that you maintain about the level of work that’s outlined below.

Activity list:

Aerobic activity:	Running (best); swimming, cycling, snow shoeing and cross-country skiing.
Strength training:	Free weight and machine exercises targeting arms, shoulders, back, abdominals, hamstrings, quadriceps and calves. Note: if you haven’t done strength training before, ensure that you get proper instruction in the use of weights, and setting up an exercise regime that will work best for you. This is critical in avoiding injury, and getting the best results.
Hill walking:	With your pack. Gradually build up the amount of time and the steepness of the terrain that you walk on, as well as the weight in your pack. Start with 10-15 pounds, increase to at least 50 pounds by one month before the climb. You can substitute stair climbing machines in the gym if necessary, again using your pack and increasing resistance, time and gradient.
Recreational exercise	If you normally play tennis, golf or any other sports, keep up with those usual activities. It’ll help to vary your workouts, and will also give you a measure of your increasing level of fitness.

Step one: 6 to 9 months before the climb

Aim: Getting into a regular, sustained pattern of exercise, and getting used to pushing your limits.

Mix of activities:

Aerobic: 4 times a week
Strength training: 3 times a week.
Hill walking with a pack: 1 to 2 days a week
Rest: 1 or 2 days a week
Recreational exercise: as per usual schedule.

Note: A good time to review your diet. Make sure that if you’re steadily increasing your level of activity, you’re eating right as well. Also a time to get used to drinking lots of water before, during and after workouts.

Step two: 4 to 5 months

Aim: Developing and then increasing your overall fitness and strength.

Mix of activities:

Aerobic: 4 days, increasing to 5 days
Strength: 3 days, increasing to 4 days
Hill walking: 1 to 2 days
Rest: 1 day
Recreational exercise: as per usual schedule.

You should now be working at increasing the duration and intensity of your aerobic workouts. Aim for 45 minutes to an hour per session. Add 10-15 pounds to your pack for hill walking, and look for longer, steeper trails.

Step three : 2 to 3 months

Aim: Continue working to increase your base fitness levels, achieved in the previous few months.

Mix of activities:

Aerobic: 5 days
Strength training: 4 days
Hill walking: 2 days
Rest: 1 day
Recreational exercise: as per usual schedule.

Increase the duration of your aerobic workouts to between 50-60 minutes, and include one longer workout a week, such as a long run or cycle, with hills or interval training. Add another 10 pounds to your pack – you should be carrying 40 pounds at this stage, for at least 5 hours at a time.

Step four: 1 month before your climb

Aim: Maintain your level of fitness, prepare for your climb.

Weekly mix of activities:

Aerobic: 5 days
Strength: 3-4 days
Hill walking: 2 days
Rest: 1 day
Recreational exercise: as per usual schedule.

Add another 10 pounds to your pack. Continue to do aerobic sessions of at least an hour, with longer sessions once a week.

The week before the climb, taper off your activities, eat and rest well.